I bought a new cancel cam part ($12) rather than the full switch which is about $100, as this seemed easier, you just snip and re-attach the blue and green wires, fiddly but doable (great vid available on youtube). I fixed this short by removing the contact ring and grinding a clearance with a dremel and then gluing it back on. In terms of the horn, I fitted a 4 pole relay and new live as suggested, this worked well but I first needed to fix a short that was happening where the copper horn contact ring was touching the steering wheel housing and blowing the low current side fuse (which shouldn’t draw much current at all). I did manage to break one of the cancel lugs first though with the dreaded roll pins… So I finally got round to fixing the issues I started this thread with. So if you spot any push fit bullet type connectors in your line they are worth pulling apart and cleaning to see if that sorts you out. If you were to look for a failure point though I find many of my old MGB connectors on lights and heater fan just stop working, all bullet type a poke around inside the female and around the male with sandpaper always gets those working again for about 6 months until they need another scrape. With your lack of power reaching the horns then it should be easy to lay a fresh wire from the column loom connector block to the horn which would save a lot of time looking for a break. I've had horn issues as well with the non-original wheel but my wiring was OK and it was solved by adding a bigger glob of solder to the top of the contacts. If you find a solution outside of a very loose cam I'll be watching. You probably need the proper OE wheel canceller rather than relying on other wheels pins if you want to ensure the cam lobes don't get ripped out on the first turn. So around £300 into it i gave up and have to cancel the signal manually. So I let the garage have another switch that I had broken in with lots of teasing and grease to free it up and the same happened. So I had it replaced, the roller pins on the steering wheel ripped through the cancel cam lobes on the new switch at the first time of asking. My Mustang had a lazy cancel when i first bought it where it'd ping right over and indicate the other turn when cancelled. You could be in for a whole World of pain. If I put another wire from the dashboard side of the connector to replace the blue/yellow to run the horns will I be bypassing the circuit breaker, I don't want to do that obviously.Īll feedback and ideas are appreciated :-) How does the circuit breaker for the horn work?, does it reset after a delay, can it break and need replacing and is it indeed within the headlight switch? Do the roll pins work in cancelling the turn signals? I then connected the two pins together and checked for voltage at the horn end of the wire but there was none, so I suspect a break somewhere in the line from the dashboard connector to the horn. I also tested the horns by connecting to the battery and they both worked. I did a bit of tracing and found that I had 12v at the yellow spring loaded pin (horn supply) but when the pins were connected there was no horn. The horn is supposedly protected by a circuit breaker which is located in the headlight switch. The next thing I noticed was that the switch was actually in good condition and the cancel 'lugs' were intact, the reason for it not working was that the cancel cam was not present on the Scott Drake (?) aftermarket steering wheel, it looks like this needs roll pins inserting into it, which aren't there either.įor the horn I was hoping it was just a fuse but that would be too simple. With the wheel off I was perplexed when I saw the image below, clearly different to other pics I'd seen of the turn signal switch and steering wheel innards, I realised I had a car with the tilt steering wheel, bit of a bonus I suppose, are they rare? Like many others I have an issue where the indicators won't cancel, the horn also stopped working and so I started to investigate.
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